Philosophy of perfume (part three): Healing molecules


How natural raw materials are different? Part two of three: 

2) Healing molecules

At the origins of the use of scents and fragrances, the philosophy of perfumery associated perfumes to spirituality and to healing.

This is so true that the knowledge of their preparation was reserved to priests and healers. In many cultures these two figures and functions were united in one person, the spiritual healer. This observation leads us straight to the concept of Spiritual healing.

Spiritual healing has been the only way in the story medicine until recently, it apprehends human being, disease and the function of the medic in a logic governed by the principle that the dimension of the spirit governs the physical one. Our actual philosophy of medicine has separated these two aspects, reducing the dimension of the spirit to mere psychology and physical neuronal processes.

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The natural perfumery trend (part two)



Not many years ago there were just 3 official types of perfumery, Vintage, mainstream and Niche perfumery, such as Creed or Lutens.

The last 20 years have witnessed not only the  birth and growth of independent natural perfumers but also the of “New Niche” perfumers,  like Ormonde Jane, Andy Tauer,  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, etc… ,  who steadily won recognition and reached a level of success superior to that of natural perfumers by proposing a return to the origins of modern perfumery, where the artistry of fragrance resided into the clash or complementarity of synthetics with naturals.
Their success in the niche market has been due to the fact that they were offering  what had totally disappeared from mainstream perfumery and was disappearing from “Old Niche”, creativity, experimentation, new ideas…

All this was happening while mainstream and old niche perfumery were  eliminating naturals not only from their new products but also from their famous classics, reformulating them. Read more

Perfumery and aromatherapy

Preparation of medicines for the treatment of a patient suffering from smallpox, miniature from the Canon of medicine, by Avicenna (980-1037), Ottoman manuscript, Turkey, 17th century; ( Istanbul, Istanbul Universitesi Kutuphanesi (University Library)); De Agostini Picture Library / G. Dagli Orti; out of copyright

Honoring the guest is much more than a part of the tradition of Islam, it is part of its fundamentals.

During my years of traveling in the Muslim world, I have been a guest all the time. This is how I have learned the art of receiving guests.

When you are guest of a perfumer, you will hope to be invited to smell some very special perfumes, to try them or even to be offered something.

Certainly, I do not disappoint my guests in their expectations, but I stupefy them when I serve them tea or coffee flavored with the essences of exotic species. Cardamom, Ginger, Mint, Lemon …

Or when I add to the drinking water a drop of rose or peppermint, when I spray over the cookies essential oil of grapefruit or lemon, aromatic water of bay laurel and rosemary over the salad or the food.

If they come to me with some cold or other illness, I prepare for them some honey with a few drops of anise or incense…

Then I say to them my favorite phrase: “Never trust a perfumer who does not drink and eat his perfumes.”

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Olfactory theories, Luca Turin speaks…

Two different olfactory theories. Do we smell the shapes or the vibrations of molecules?

Explained in a brilliant humoristic way by Luca Turin himself.