Patchouli – Psychology of a perfume

patchouly perfume

Patchouli perfume

Patchouli is an oil that is essential in many ways in the composition of natural perfumes.

It is obtained from the dried leaves of the Patchouli bush, which are macerated in water before being distilled.

Its aroma is of deep undergrowth and of forest lichens. It is camphoric and moldy and tastes of damp bushland.

It is an intimate, sensual, invasive, aphrodisiac, and provocative smell.

These latter adjectives strangely also describe human pheromones. Patchouli could be a substitute or enhancer for our production of pheromones. These very pheromones that we obsessively wash away every day with aggressive soaps and deodorants.

This pheromonal dimension of Patchouli essence is probably the reason why it has always exerted an enthusiastic appeal from young people, and it is also probably the reason why it was never liked by their parents, who have in life a specific role and a social image to undertake and conform to.

When a boy full of patchouli gets on the metro or on the bus, a negative reaction is often red on the faces of passengers. It is because the perfume of Patchouli activates the pituitary gland of who smells it, causing endorphin, the love hormone, to be released into their bloodstream. Endorphin is certainly out of place in the morning of the commuters train. Therefore, the reproaching faces.

If someone tries to give you an injection of endorphins in the morning while going to work on the bus, you would certainly take it as a physical aggression. This is exactly what the boy does with his perfume of patchouli, without a syringe.

Patchouli is the favorite perfume of the rebels. Who does not like patchouli is not a real rebel, however much he thinks to be.

Rebels, idealists, experimenters of mental and psychic experiences, researchers of new ways… Patchouli is your perfume. It will support you as long as you remain such, whatever your age.

Patchouli perfume in natural perfumery

Patchouli confers density and body to the flowery essences in natural perfumes and is often the magical ingredient that makes commercial synthetic perfumes smell good. It is capable of giving them a status of sophistication without which these commercial fragrances would remain in the olfactory realm of anti-mosquitoes sprays.

The perfume of Patchouli is an olfactory archetype that represents the mystical adventure of India, the rebellion of youth against the established order, the provocative sensuality of adolescence, and the refuge of deep forests.

Its scent helps us organize our ideas and stimulates in us the desire to overcome the limits set by society and by our physical nature, in order to find new ways of thinking and of understanding.

Patchouli helps us reconnect with the base chakra, with our physicality, when we tend too much towards intellectuality or idealism.

In natural perfumery, this essence is inevitable, indispensable, and irreplaceable.

In natural perfumes, it combines harmoniously with everything but in particular with the essences of ylang-ylang, rose, tuberose, jasmine, tonka, cinnamon, incense, myrrh, and opoponax.

Patchouli perfume in aromatherapy

In aromatherapy, it is used against water retention in massages, against mycoses in topical use and against intestinal infections, in internal use.


Our perfumes containing Patchouli

Patchouli

Oak Moss

Sea wood

Gringo

Ihram

Tambour

Aalacho N°2

Patchouli Felix

 

Aromatherapy in case of pandemics

Pandemics, a manual for survival

The problem of today’s pandemics is a modern problem.

The disease is easily recognized, its modes of propagation are immediately understood, but the common chemical cures and drugs are without effects.

When suddenly appears a bacteria resistant to 8 antibiotics, no medic can believe that this monster may have acquired his immunity all by itself. They know that it is impossible.

These are the pandemics that threaten us in the near future, you recognize it when you hear doctors on television, saying: “We have never seen anything like that.”

The problem that makes us vulnerable to the new pandemics is the problem of a medical system that has nothing to propose as an alternative to vaccines, antibiotics and chemical drugs, except new ones. But when there are no yet new ones?  What can we do?

Read more

Report on May 2017 Perfumery Course – Third part

FROM GUY

USA. Sales Executive

Since I was young, I was aware of scents and how they made me feel.  Later in life, I learned that scents are connected to memory.

My maternal grandfather was a florist and mother was a gardener.  I grew up around these smells.  I also played with chemistry sets and loved mixing things to create chemical reactions and delight a small audience.

As I got older I developed a curiosity about perfume.  That curiosity turned into an obsession.  Since moving to New York I visited shops that sell interesting niche and vintage perfumes and the perfume buyer in one of those shops recommended some blogs.  From one blog in particular, Kafkaesque, I read in detail about the perfume course in Italy, given by Abdes-Salaam Attar of La Via Profumo (“the Way of perfume”).  Until this time I had not considered a path of making perfumes. Read more

Report on May 2017 Perfumery Course – Second part

FROM AMIR
Iran. Chef

I departed from Tehran and arrived at Germano Reale with a little apprehension, as I got my kit only on the last day, and I thought that I would have some difficulties because I had not practised and experimented with the kits.

On the evening before the course starts, we all met Salaam and he reassured me. What I had never imagined is that we would be making perfumes already on the very day.

As he says making perfume is easy, and after the second day, one can see he’s right and I could make sixteen within a week.

While guiding us in making our perfumes, he was giving us practical information about all the aspects of making perfumes. Know-how, bottling, selling and so on. But more than telling and writing on the papers, Salaam writes on the soul. He teaches by doing and also makes you learn by doing. Learning by doing with precious essences. And he’s most with his pricey essential oils and the rare substances and raw materials that he has, that very few people have had the chance to see and smell them.

There in Germano Reale, you might feel far away from the world but is a good opportunity to learn so many things all at once. Salaam doesn’t give any certificate, you don’t need any. He gives two most precious things, his knowledge and his time, before, during and after the course. God bless him.

Perfumes composed during the course by Amir

Read more

Report on May 2017 Perfumery Course – First part

Group dynamics are important in my perfumery classes. A month before the course starts, students get to know each other over a WhatsApp group. The WhatsApp group is dedicated to connecting students through preparatory course goals and to encourage experimentation with preparatory course materials. Through this online networking, students become acquainted with one another, learning from each other’s experiences before meeting in Italy and developing the right mindset for composing perfumes together.

Nationalities are always varied in these seminars, but each of the participants is strongly motivated and has high expectations having spent a substantial sum of money for the course, travel and accommodation. This strong focus on the common goal of learning how to compose perfume unites all the students in spirit, whatever their nationality or social origin, and this spirit is the very soul of the group dynamics that will develop and bloom during these six days.

Is it the group itself or is it my teaching method that improves? Or is it a kind of alchemy between time, persons, and place? I do not know what made this group so successful, but for the first time, I experienced the feeling of the teacher proud of his students, already by the fourth day. Read more

Ninja Perfumers

Perfume is love.

Like love, perfume is a bridge between the people

Like love, perfume radiates from you and enters the heart of others.

Like love, you can learn to love only by loving, you can learn to make perfumes only by making perfumes

Like love, being in love happens without effort, it is like loving perfumes, but to learn how to love is to learn how to give love to others, and it is like learning how to make perfumes for others.

I have been telling you many metaphors in order to teach you how easy it is to make perfumes. Love is one of them.

Making perfumes is like swimming.  Only at the beginning it is difficult, until you realize that floating on water is your natural state. It is fear that makes you drawn, and lack of trust and confidence.

You have abandoned yourself with trust to my guiding hand and you have seen that composing scents is like an innate capacity we all have as throwing arrows with a bow is. You acquired confidence.

You nose now knows what it smells and you are able to think with smells. You can take a brief and make a perfume in 10 minutes. You can work on different perfumes contemporarily, you can conceive perfumes before making them. You have become real Ninja perfumers in your spirit.

I have tried to teach you Humility as a Way in making perfumes and also Trust in Destiny.
Your perfumes are like your children, they will never be as you want, they will be as they want.

Be satisfied therefore when your perfumes are good, it is enough,  and do not ruin them by trying to make them perfect. That is something that may happen to them with ageing. You will not have to wait long, like with your children.

It is always an adventure to meet a new person. I learned this in the Sahara where very few people frequent. Every person is a universe to discover, an infinite universe like none other.
Teaching this group from such different countries as China, India, Russia, Canada, USA was a unique occasion for me to apply my philosophy in perfume making as a bridge between east and west.

My Sufi teacher used to say to us: “When somebody knocks at our door we know who has sent him”.
Destiny has sent you to me and has reunited you together on this occasion.

We have eaten and drank perfumes from the first minutes we came together until our parting. You have been composing new perfumes every day without limit, you were never tired. If I had left the door open after the class you would have continued during the night.
Happiness was your perfume in these days. I am so happy about it.

New Perfumery Seminar July 2015

Held in English language

July 22nd to 27th

perfume-organ

“Making perfumes is easy” by AbdesSalaam Attar “La Via del Profumo”

After 6 years, I am returning to teaching with a summer seminar in the hills of Rimini, Italy from 10th to 15th June 2015. There will be 5 days of daily classes and workshops to teach 12 students both my philosophy of perfumery and my method of making fragrances

The classes will cover a range of issues. One key point will be natural raw materials, including animal scents and rare essences, several of which can be smelled only with me. I will explain the crucial issue of how to understand and evaluate the quality of natural raw materials.

Every day, there will be blending workshops of different methods and approaches. I will teach students how to custom blend fragrances to benefit those who may wish to expand into perfume creation for private clients, customers, or friends. I will also explain how to approach concept blending for companies. In addition, I will discuss where to source the best essences, so that those who have learned how to make perfumes with me can carry on as a perfumer.

Other topics will include perfume descriptive language, olfactory psychology, philosophy and the ethics of natural perfumery. These are fundamentally important because the nose is only secondary to the mind in making perfumes, which is before all a mental attitude.

Read more

Perfumery Seminar last day

germano-reale

Distilling the resort “Il Germano Reale”.

Today is distillation day, D Day, and also the conclusive day of this adventure for my friends.

It has been very emotional for many of them, not so much because of the door opening learning, but very much more because of the ties that have built between them during these days. The intensity of the experience has been decoupled by the immersion in a bath of natural perfumes.

From the plant to perfume!

 

Read more